Day: 012
Date: Friday, 19 November 2004
Start: 30km west of Woods Point
Finish: Melbourne
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 1424
Accommodation: Relative's home
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cookies and juice
Lunch: Pies
Dinner: Cooked meal
Animals Seen: Kangaroos
Journal:
I got up at about 5:45am to the sound of light rain which turned out to be fog. It had rained during the night. I decided to leave breakfast until I reached a town and was on the road by 6:45am. I made good speed, attacking the hills, on a road which basically followed a ridge which was gradually losing elevation. The only drawback was the loose gravel road which slowed the roll and made steering bends tricky.
At about 8:30am I finally reached sealed road and the Warburton turn-off. It was then quite a fast descent to the Yarra Valley and then a flatter section through Reefton and McMahons Creek. I was hoping for a store for breakfast, but there wasn't anything until Warburton which I reached at 10:00am. By this time I was feeling quite tired. I stopped at a small supermarket in what I though was the main street and bought some cookies and juice for breakfast. I was disappointed to find around the next bend that there was a range of cafes where I could have dined. Too late!
From Warburton, feeling quite tired and dealing with a strong headwind I found the Warburton Rail Trail and set off for Mt Evelyn. Despite the wind, it was a pleasant and scenic trail and I made quite reasonable speed. At Mt Evelyn I stopped for a big lunch in a bakery and then headed for Melbourne on main roads. I called the in-laws to see if they would be around for afternoon tea and arrived there at 3:30pm having dealt with the busy traffic. It was nice to get there and be greeted by Kath, Geoff and Robyn, but it didn't have the same degree of relief as finishing the Appalachian Trail. From there I rode to Glen Iris arriving about 5:00pm to be greeted by Dad.
I felt a sense of accomplishment, especially having dealt with the challenges of the Tom Groggin and Billy Goat Bluff Tracks, which I think were as physically demanding as anything I have done. The trip met my expectations re small towns, bush country and adventures (snow, etc.). I was pleased I had done it and was thinking what next.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 011 - Lost Plain to Woods Point
Day: 011
Date: Thursday, 18 November 2004
Start: Lost PLain
Finish: 30km west of Woods Point
Daily Kilometres: 130
Total Kilometres: 1274
Accommodation: Tent
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Pie and pastie
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen: Kangaroos, dingo pup
Journal:
I woke up at 6:00am and was on the road by 7:20am on a very windy and relatively warm day. I hoped that a mainly downhill ride would get me to Licola, 45km away, quite quickly. However, the road was quite steep and poor in quality meaning I couldn't go too fast and I got very tired hands from using the brakes the whole way. When I reached the floor of the Wellington River Valley it still took a long time to get to Licola and I was very tired (probably from yesterday) by the time I got there.
I found the small store and had an early lunch of pie, pastie, ice-cream, juice and milk. After about an hour I set off towards Woods Point on a road that climbed steadily back into the mountains. I felt quite tired and decided to walk when I felt like it. This meant that progress was relatively slow but it was steady. Nearer the top the road changed to gravel, and after a break, I felt some strength returning nand walked less, making faster progress.
I turned off the Jamieson Road towards Woods Point and made good progress until I turned on to the Selma Road which climbed over Mount Selma. The surface was rough and there were plenty of ups. Even coming down the other side I couldn't make good speed because the surface was too poor. I hoped it would be better when I turned on to the Walhalla-Woods Point Road but it wasn't. I had been planning to stop in at Woods Point and perhaps spend the night there. However, as I got closer, the prospect of descending into Woods Point and then starting with the climb out tomorrow morning seemed less enticing. I had enough food to camp out and in the end decided to keep going to a picnic area marked on the map. I seemed to be making good progress and the road was sticking mainly to the ridge. It was much more rainforest-like with tree ferns, etc.
I reached the picnic area at 7:00pm but it was a wreck. I continued on another 5km and found a place on a side trail shere I camped. Yet again my chafing was quite bad and my clothes definitely needed a wash. I went to bed at 9:30pm after calling Barb.
Date: Thursday, 18 November 2004
Start: Lost PLain
Finish: 30km west of Woods Point
Daily Kilometres: 130
Total Kilometres: 1274
Accommodation: Tent
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Pie and pastie
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen: Kangaroos, dingo pup
Journal:
I woke up at 6:00am and was on the road by 7:20am on a very windy and relatively warm day. I hoped that a mainly downhill ride would get me to Licola, 45km away, quite quickly. However, the road was quite steep and poor in quality meaning I couldn't go too fast and I got very tired hands from using the brakes the whole way. When I reached the floor of the Wellington River Valley it still took a long time to get to Licola and I was very tired (probably from yesterday) by the time I got there.
I found the small store and had an early lunch of pie, pastie, ice-cream, juice and milk. After about an hour I set off towards Woods Point on a road that climbed steadily back into the mountains. I felt quite tired and decided to walk when I felt like it. This meant that progress was relatively slow but it was steady. Nearer the top the road changed to gravel, and after a break, I felt some strength returning nand walked less, making faster progress.
I turned off the Jamieson Road towards Woods Point and made good progress until I turned on to the Selma Road which climbed over Mount Selma. The surface was rough and there were plenty of ups. Even coming down the other side I couldn't make good speed because the surface was too poor. I hoped it would be better when I turned on to the Walhalla-Woods Point Road but it wasn't. I had been planning to stop in at Woods Point and perhaps spend the night there. However, as I got closer, the prospect of descending into Woods Point and then starting with the climb out tomorrow morning seemed less enticing. I had enough food to camp out and in the end decided to keep going to a picnic area marked on the map. I seemed to be making good progress and the road was sticking mainly to the ridge. It was much more rainforest-like with tree ferns, etc.
I reached the picnic area at 7:00pm but it was a wreck. I continued on another 5km and found a place on a side trail shere I camped. Yet again my chafing was quite bad and my clothes definitely needed a wash. I went to bed at 9:30pm after calling Barb.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 010 - Dargo to Lost Plain
Day: 010
Date: Wednesday, 17 November 2004
Start: Dargo
Finish: Lost Plain
Daily Kilometres: 80
Total Kilometres: 1144
Accommodation: Tent
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Full English breakfast
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen:
Journal:
I had a nice big breakfast and left at 7:30am. The motel owner was concerned about my plans to get to Licola and wanted a number there to call to check I was OK. I explained that I had a tent and food and would be fine. For the first couple of hours I followed a reasonable quality road upstream through the beautiful Wonnangatta Valley. It was a lovely day and very peaceful.
Around 10:00am I reached the Billy Goat Bluff Track turn-off and began to ascend the locally-famous track. It ascended 1,200m in 7km and was extraordinarily tough. In some places I could barely make forward progress and the bike occasionally threatened to tip over backwards, the track was so steep. It was also very warm and sunny and the flies were bothersome. It was demoralising rounding each corner and seeing the track winding steeply ever upwards. I had lunch on the first false summit, feeling very tired. I gradually got more exhausted and found the loose rocky surface almost impossible to get traction on. I wanted it to be over but had no alternative but to keep going. To top it off, my water began to run out and I was getting dehydrated. I also got a puncture. I was passed by a small 4WD tag-along tour group nearer the top and they were mightily impressed by my effort.
Finally, around 3:00pm, I reached the top and had a slow gradual rough descent a short way to the Moroka Valley. I found a small stream along the way and replenished my water and drank my fill. Then the road followed the Moroka River gradually upstream. Again it was peaceful and beautiful. I managed to maintain a reasonable pace but had given up on trying to get to Licola. The track followed a ridge further up with great views to the north across the mountains, some of which still had snow on them. Near the top I found a possible campsite but then moved on when I decided I could do better. I passed Arbuckle Junction and a few kilometres later found a great spot to camp at Lost Plain, a high alpine meadow, at about 7:30pm. I set up camp and ate as the sun set and was in bed soon after 9:00pm. Still having nightmares about the Billy Goat Bluff Track.
Date: Wednesday, 17 November 2004
Start: Dargo
Finish: Lost Plain
Daily Kilometres: 80
Total Kilometres: 1144
Accommodation: Tent
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Full English breakfast
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen:
Journal:
I had a nice big breakfast and left at 7:30am. The motel owner was concerned about my plans to get to Licola and wanted a number there to call to check I was OK. I explained that I had a tent and food and would be fine. For the first couple of hours I followed a reasonable quality road upstream through the beautiful Wonnangatta Valley. It was a lovely day and very peaceful.
Around 10:00am I reached the Billy Goat Bluff Track turn-off and began to ascend the locally-famous track. It ascended 1,200m in 7km and was extraordinarily tough. In some places I could barely make forward progress and the bike occasionally threatened to tip over backwards, the track was so steep. It was also very warm and sunny and the flies were bothersome. It was demoralising rounding each corner and seeing the track winding steeply ever upwards. I had lunch on the first false summit, feeling very tired. I gradually got more exhausted and found the loose rocky surface almost impossible to get traction on. I wanted it to be over but had no alternative but to keep going. To top it off, my water began to run out and I was getting dehydrated. I also got a puncture. I was passed by a small 4WD tag-along tour group nearer the top and they were mightily impressed by my effort.
Finally, around 3:00pm, I reached the top and had a slow gradual rough descent a short way to the Moroka Valley. I found a small stream along the way and replenished my water and drank my fill. Then the road followed the Moroka River gradually upstream. Again it was peaceful and beautiful. I managed to maintain a reasonable pace but had given up on trying to get to Licola. The track followed a ridge further up with great views to the north across the mountains, some of which still had snow on them. Near the top I found a possible campsite but then moved on when I decided I could do better. I passed Arbuckle Junction and a few kilometres later found a great spot to camp at Lost Plain, a high alpine meadow, at about 7:30pm. I set up camp and ate as the sun set and was in bed soon after 9:00pm. Still having nightmares about the Billy Goat Bluff Track.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 009 - Omeo to Dargo
Day: 009
Date: Tuesday, 16 November 2004
Start: Omeo
Finish: Dargo
Daily Kilometres: 90
Total Kilometres: 1064
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Toasted sandwich
Lunch: Pie and pastie
Dinner: Counter tea
Animals Seen: Emus
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am after a good night's sleep and packed up and left by 7:10am. I rode the short distance to the bakery and had a toasted sandwich for breakfast. Then I headed out of town on a beautiful sunny and cool morning. As expected, most of the morning was spent climbing, first on bitumen and then on gravel as I crossed the Birregun Range. There were logging operations going on along the first part of the road and I made sure I got off the road when the trucks roared past. Once past the logging, I had the road to myself apart from a grader midway along. It was a long climb and I had to walk a number of times. After yesterday's fatigue I was quicker to walk today when I got tired. I felt better and really enjoyed the isolation and views on the beautiful day.
At one point the road passed through a vast section of burnt-out forest which was eerily quiet but with a stark beauty. Further along, back in the green forest, I startled a pair of emus who ran along the track in front of me for a way. My initial plan was to get to Dargo for a late lunch, but as the day wore on my likely arrival time got later, mainly because of the hills, but also because of the poor road quality. On the descents I had to concentrate hard on dodging the rocks and my hands grew very tired from holding the brakes on. I hoped that the brake pads would last the trip.
Later on I noticed some new rattles from the back and stopped to find the carrier was loose and had lost a screw. Fortunately, I found an unused one elsewhere on the bike and managed to fix it. I need to check more regularly. I eventually arrived in the sleepy and pretty town of Dargo just before 4:00pm. I got a pie and pastie for a late lunch and decided to stay in the town motel for the night. This means I'll get to Melbourne on Friday. I got some advice from the motel owner on the best track to Licola tomorrow. I have a big hill to climb.
Date: Tuesday, 16 November 2004
Start: Omeo
Finish: Dargo
Daily Kilometres: 90
Total Kilometres: 1064
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Toasted sandwich
Lunch: Pie and pastie
Dinner: Counter tea
Animals Seen: Emus
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am after a good night's sleep and packed up and left by 7:10am. I rode the short distance to the bakery and had a toasted sandwich for breakfast. Then I headed out of town on a beautiful sunny and cool morning. As expected, most of the morning was spent climbing, first on bitumen and then on gravel as I crossed the Birregun Range. There were logging operations going on along the first part of the road and I made sure I got off the road when the trucks roared past. Once past the logging, I had the road to myself apart from a grader midway along. It was a long climb and I had to walk a number of times. After yesterday's fatigue I was quicker to walk today when I got tired. I felt better and really enjoyed the isolation and views on the beautiful day.
At one point the road passed through a vast section of burnt-out forest which was eerily quiet but with a stark beauty. Further along, back in the green forest, I startled a pair of emus who ran along the track in front of me for a way. My initial plan was to get to Dargo for a late lunch, but as the day wore on my likely arrival time got later, mainly because of the hills, but also because of the poor road quality. On the descents I had to concentrate hard on dodging the rocks and my hands grew very tired from holding the brakes on. I hoped that the brake pads would last the trip.
Later on I noticed some new rattles from the back and stopped to find the carrier was loose and had lost a screw. Fortunately, I found an unused one elsewhere on the bike and managed to fix it. I need to check more regularly. I eventually arrived in the sleepy and pretty town of Dargo just before 4:00pm. I got a pie and pastie for a late lunch and decided to stay in the town motel for the night. This means I'll get to Melbourne on Friday. I got some advice from the motel owner on the best track to Licola tomorrow. I have a big hill to climb.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 008 - Mount Hope Track to Omeo
Day: 008
Date: Monday, 15 November 2004
Start: Mount Hope Track
Finish: Omeo
Daily Kilometres: 91
Total Kilometres: 974
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Hamburger
Dinner: Chicken Kiev
Animals Seen: Hare
Journal:
I got up at 6:00am after a reasonable night's sleep. It was cold with some wind but partly sunny. I packed up and left at about 7:20am, walking up the first long hill. I felt positive about getting to Omeo for lunch and maybe getting back on schedule. Past the first hill I began riding and managed to ride up most remaining hills for the day. I was keen to cover ground and rode as much as I could. After an hour I reached Grassy Knob Track junction which meant I was about 10km short of where I thought I was last night. A bit demoralising.
I continued on making reasonable time but then, when I expected to start descending, found myself steadily ascending most of the time. I kept pedalling but was getting very tired, although the alpine views were great. Eventually the long descent came, but it was rocky and often corrugated and I had to steer very carefully. I passed a hiker and shortly after got a puncture in my rear tyre. I couldn't find hole in the tube so changed the tube, successfully, although, all up, it cost me about 45 minutes. I continued on with the quality of the road steadily improving but still plenty of uphills. Getting closer to Benambra I realised I was getting very tired, probably the result of the last two or three very physically tough days. I decided to have lunch in Benambra and think about stopping early in Omeo to allow some recovery.
Benambra was smaller than I anticipated but there was a general store/cafe and I had a burger for lunch. It took a long time to prepare and I didn't leave until 2:00pm for the 22km ride to Omeo. It was getting quite warm riding across the open pastureland and then I encountered yet another large hill (I was hoping it was going to be all downhill to Omeo). At the top were great views to Omeo and then a fantastic long and fast descent followed by a few short sharp hills to Omeo. I found a nice motel in the main street and did some shopping before having a counter tea at a nearby hotel.
Date: Monday, 15 November 2004
Start: Mount Hope Track
Finish: Omeo
Daily Kilometres: 91
Total Kilometres: 974
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Hamburger
Dinner: Chicken Kiev
Animals Seen: Hare
Journal:
I got up at 6:00am after a reasonable night's sleep. It was cold with some wind but partly sunny. I packed up and left at about 7:20am, walking up the first long hill. I felt positive about getting to Omeo for lunch and maybe getting back on schedule. Past the first hill I began riding and managed to ride up most remaining hills for the day. I was keen to cover ground and rode as much as I could. After an hour I reached Grassy Knob Track junction which meant I was about 10km short of where I thought I was last night. A bit demoralising.
I continued on making reasonable time but then, when I expected to start descending, found myself steadily ascending most of the time. I kept pedalling but was getting very tired, although the alpine views were great. Eventually the long descent came, but it was rocky and often corrugated and I had to steer very carefully. I passed a hiker and shortly after got a puncture in my rear tyre. I couldn't find hole in the tube so changed the tube, successfully, although, all up, it cost me about 45 minutes. I continued on with the quality of the road steadily improving but still plenty of uphills. Getting closer to Benambra I realised I was getting very tired, probably the result of the last two or three very physically tough days. I decided to have lunch in Benambra and think about stopping early in Omeo to allow some recovery.
Benambra was smaller than I anticipated but there was a general store/cafe and I had a burger for lunch. It took a long time to prepare and I didn't leave until 2:00pm for the 22km ride to Omeo. It was getting quite warm riding across the open pastureland and then I encountered yet another large hill (I was hoping it was going to be all downhill to Omeo). At the top were great views to Omeo and then a fantastic long and fast descent followed by a few short sharp hills to Omeo. I found a nice motel in the main street and did some shopping before having a counter tea at a nearby hotel.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 007 - Khancoban to Mount Hope Track
Day: 007
Date: Sunday, 14 November 2004
Start: Khancoban
Finish: Mount Hope Track
Daily Kilometres: 72
Total Kilometres: 883
Accommodation: Tent
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen: Kangaroos
Journal:
I decided to watch the Australia vs France rugby game which was on TV at 7:00am before leaving, so got up at 6:40am. While I watched the game, which Australia lost, I packed up and had breakfast so left right on 8:30am when the game finished. I rode to the Khancoban general store and bought stuff for gorp and had an orange juice. I left town at 9:00am and was immediately confronted with a very long hill. I cycled a bit, but walked a lot as well. I quickly realised that with my late start and all the walking I would be struggling to make Tom Groggin by lunch and Benambra for the night. I plodded on. There were lots of motorbikes coming the other way. The weather was better than yesterday but still cool, overcast and occasionally drizzling. The forest was alpine and the scenery pretty.
Eventually I reached Tom Groggin picnic ground around 1:30pm and had lunch. I read the notes and looked at the maps and checked out the ford across the Murray River. It looked dangerous to ford and eventually I rode back a couple of kilometres to Tom Groggin Station and crossed the river on their causeway and then found my way to the Tom Groggin Track. I stuffed around for a while before assuring myself that I was on the right track and headed south-east. Immediately I was confronted with a huge boggy red clay hill. It was extremely steep and I could only make progress one step at a time. If Tom Groggin Track was going to be like this all the way it was going to take me days. There was no alternative but to keep going. Eventually I reached Boggy Creek and filled my water containers. The Track became less muddy but was incredibly steep. It went up from 500m to 1,400m in a few kilometres. I had to rest every 100m or less to recover and did almost no cycling.
At last I seemed to reach the top and got to do more riding. Earlier than expected, Tom Groggin Track turned into Mount Hope Road and I knew I was through the toughest bit although I was still walking up the bigger hills. At 7:00pm I stopped in a saddle and found a place to camp. It was quite cold but I got everything done and was in bed by 9:00pm.
Date: Sunday, 14 November 2004
Start: Khancoban
Finish: Mount Hope Track
Daily Kilometres: 72
Total Kilometres: 883
Accommodation: Tent
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen: Kangaroos
Journal:
I decided to watch the Australia vs France rugby game which was on TV at 7:00am before leaving, so got up at 6:40am. While I watched the game, which Australia lost, I packed up and had breakfast so left right on 8:30am when the game finished. I rode to the Khancoban general store and bought stuff for gorp and had an orange juice. I left town at 9:00am and was immediately confronted with a very long hill. I cycled a bit, but walked a lot as well. I quickly realised that with my late start and all the walking I would be struggling to make Tom Groggin by lunch and Benambra for the night. I plodded on. There were lots of motorbikes coming the other way. The weather was better than yesterday but still cool, overcast and occasionally drizzling. The forest was alpine and the scenery pretty.
Eventually I reached Tom Groggin picnic ground around 1:30pm and had lunch. I read the notes and looked at the maps and checked out the ford across the Murray River. It looked dangerous to ford and eventually I rode back a couple of kilometres to Tom Groggin Station and crossed the river on their causeway and then found my way to the Tom Groggin Track. I stuffed around for a while before assuring myself that I was on the right track and headed south-east. Immediately I was confronted with a huge boggy red clay hill. It was extremely steep and I could only make progress one step at a time. If Tom Groggin Track was going to be like this all the way it was going to take me days. There was no alternative but to keep going. Eventually I reached Boggy Creek and filled my water containers. The Track became less muddy but was incredibly steep. It went up from 500m to 1,400m in a few kilometres. I had to rest every 100m or less to recover and did almost no cycling.
At last I seemed to reach the top and got to do more riding. Earlier than expected, Tom Groggin Track turned into Mount Hope Road and I knew I was through the toughest bit although I was still walking up the bigger hills. At 7:00pm I stopped in a saddle and found a place to camp. It was quite cold but I got everything done and was in bed by 9:00pm.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 006 - Adaminaby to Khancoban
Day: 006
Date: Saturday, 13 November 2004
Start: Adaminaby
Finish: Khancoban
Daily Kilometres: 116
Total Kilometres: 811
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Pie and pastie
Dinner: Lasagne
Animals Seen: Kangaroos (one too close for comfort on a steep descent)
Journal:
I was woken several times during the night by strong winds and in the morning when I got up at 6:15am it was raining heavily and horizontally. I packed up hoping it would stop and trying to get a weather forecast on the radio. The rain continued and I decided to wait until 10:00am, and if it hadn't stopped by then, I would stay in Adaminaby for another night. Around 9:00am it cleared up although the forecast was for showers all day, strong winds and snow down to 1,400m. The maximum temperature was to be 3°C and blizzard conditions were expected on the peaks. I decided to risk it since I had revamped my schedule and made bookings.
Initially progress was slow as I gradually climbed through high plains grazing country directly into the gale-force wind. I couldn't manage more than 15kph and could barely roll down hills. I entered Kosciusko National Park and continued climbing through snowgum forests, some of which had been burnt out. It began to rain, then hail and sleet as I climbed higher. Going down hills was agonising with hail stinging my face. I decided to try and get to Kiandra (35km) for my break, not knowing what was there but hoping for a service station.
Crossing the plain before Kiandra in abysmal conditions - blowing snow and sleet - I knew I had to find some shelter. My hands and feet were frozen, I was saturated, and I was still just in shorts. When I got to Kiandra, apart from some boarded up buildings, the only shelter I could see was a Road Traffic Authority (RTA) snow-plough shed. It said "No Admittance" but I went in anyway, figuring they wouldn't object. Later, the RTA guy turned up and was helpful. He discussed my route and said there was a huge hill and some very exposed terrain after Cabramurra. He also gave me some old gloves. I put on my clothes and left for Cabramurra, getting there around 2:00pm after more hail and snow. I had a quick pie and pastie and hot chocolate for lunch and set off for Khancoban, 59km away.
There was an enormous hill after Tumut Ponds Dam, and then lots of snow on the ground up high, but no more really bad weather. Then there was a fast descent into Khancoban and one last soaking rainstorm. I arrived at the motel at 7:00pm, checked in, and had a counter tea.
Date: Saturday, 13 November 2004
Start: Adaminaby
Finish: Khancoban
Daily Kilometres: 116
Total Kilometres: 811
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Pie and pastie
Dinner: Lasagne
Animals Seen: Kangaroos (one too close for comfort on a steep descent)
Journal:
I was woken several times during the night by strong winds and in the morning when I got up at 6:15am it was raining heavily and horizontally. I packed up hoping it would stop and trying to get a weather forecast on the radio. The rain continued and I decided to wait until 10:00am, and if it hadn't stopped by then, I would stay in Adaminaby for another night. Around 9:00am it cleared up although the forecast was for showers all day, strong winds and snow down to 1,400m. The maximum temperature was to be 3°C and blizzard conditions were expected on the peaks. I decided to risk it since I had revamped my schedule and made bookings.
Initially progress was slow as I gradually climbed through high plains grazing country directly into the gale-force wind. I couldn't manage more than 15kph and could barely roll down hills. I entered Kosciusko National Park and continued climbing through snowgum forests, some of which had been burnt out. It began to rain, then hail and sleet as I climbed higher. Going down hills was agonising with hail stinging my face. I decided to try and get to Kiandra (35km) for my break, not knowing what was there but hoping for a service station.
Crossing the plain before Kiandra in abysmal conditions - blowing snow and sleet - I knew I had to find some shelter. My hands and feet were frozen, I was saturated, and I was still just in shorts. When I got to Kiandra, apart from some boarded up buildings, the only shelter I could see was a Road Traffic Authority (RTA) snow-plough shed. It said "No Admittance" but I went in anyway, figuring they wouldn't object. Later, the RTA guy turned up and was helpful. He discussed my route and said there was a huge hill and some very exposed terrain after Cabramurra. He also gave me some old gloves. I put on my clothes and left for Cabramurra, getting there around 2:00pm after more hail and snow. I had a quick pie and pastie and hot chocolate for lunch and set off for Khancoban, 59km away.
There was an enormous hill after Tumut Ponds Dam, and then lots of snow on the ground up high, but no more really bad weather. Then there was a fast descent into Khancoban and one last soaking rainstorm. I arrived at the motel at 7:00pm, checked in, and had a counter tea.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 005 - Canberra to Adaminaby
Day: 005
Date: Friday, 12 November 2004
Start: Canberra
Finish: Adaminaby
Daily Kilometres: 115
Total Kilometres: 695
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Rice bubbles and crumpets
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Quiche
Animals Seen: Tortoise, kangaroos, swooping magpies
Journal:
I got up at 6:45am, packed and organised my own breakfast and ate with Chris and Jocey. Chris left for work at about 7:45am and I left about 8:20am. Initially I made good time on good roads heading south out of Canberra against the peak hour traffic. I reached Tharwa soon after 9:00am but didn't see a store there so didn't have the snack and Coke I had planned (a fatal error?).
From Tharwa the road climbed in fits and starts through rural grazing land surrounded by high rocky mountains. I stopped for a break at the top of one of the long hills and relaxed in the sun and cool wind surveying the view. I was sweating a lot going up the hills and the flies were bad. I swallowed a few! I kept on and laboured or walked up many hills, often followed by downhills, losing most of the altitude gained, which was abit frustrating.
I stopped for lunch at a trailhead after walking up a very long hill. It was a pleasant spot and I was tempted to lie down for a sleep. On resuming, the road changed to gravel and continued relentlessly upwards. I walked some and rode some and went through my water very quickly. I reached Shannons Flat/Hut, an abandoned summer cattlemans hut set in a beautiful alpine meadow and stopped for a break. I seemed to be near the pass and the road was undulating and scenic before crossing the ACT/NSW border from where the gravel road immediately deteriorated into corrugations and minor washouts. This meant I couldn't go downhill fast and got shaken a lot but the bike held together. The gears are sticking a bit, probably because of the dust. I had used all of my water and was getting dehydrated.
The bad road combined with a strong headwind made the last 20km hard going and I was very pleased when I reached Adaminaby. I stopped at the motel on the outskirts of town and got a $50 room from a very nice guy. He told me to get dinner at the Bowling Club, which I did later. It was the social hub on Friday night. I went to bed thinking about the 3,000 bikers supposed to be on the road tomorrow, the forecast snow showers, and the tough trip to Khancoban. I booked a motel there and also my train back to Sydney from Melbourne.
Date: Friday, 12 November 2004
Start: Canberra
Finish: Adaminaby
Daily Kilometres: 115
Total Kilometres: 695
Accommodation: Motel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Rice bubbles and crumpets
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Quiche
Animals Seen: Tortoise, kangaroos, swooping magpies
Journal:
I got up at 6:45am, packed and organised my own breakfast and ate with Chris and Jocey. Chris left for work at about 7:45am and I left about 8:20am. Initially I made good time on good roads heading south out of Canberra against the peak hour traffic. I reached Tharwa soon after 9:00am but didn't see a store there so didn't have the snack and Coke I had planned (a fatal error?).
From Tharwa the road climbed in fits and starts through rural grazing land surrounded by high rocky mountains. I stopped for a break at the top of one of the long hills and relaxed in the sun and cool wind surveying the view. I was sweating a lot going up the hills and the flies were bad. I swallowed a few! I kept on and laboured or walked up many hills, often followed by downhills, losing most of the altitude gained, which was abit frustrating.
I stopped for lunch at a trailhead after walking up a very long hill. It was a pleasant spot and I was tempted to lie down for a sleep. On resuming, the road changed to gravel and continued relentlessly upwards. I walked some and rode some and went through my water very quickly. I reached Shannons Flat/Hut, an abandoned summer cattlemans hut set in a beautiful alpine meadow and stopped for a break. I seemed to be near the pass and the road was undulating and scenic before crossing the ACT/NSW border from where the gravel road immediately deteriorated into corrugations and minor washouts. This meant I couldn't go downhill fast and got shaken a lot but the bike held together. The gears are sticking a bit, probably because of the dust. I had used all of my water and was getting dehydrated.
The bad road combined with a strong headwind made the last 20km hard going and I was very pleased when I reached Adaminaby. I stopped at the motel on the outskirts of town and got a $50 room from a very nice guy. He told me to get dinner at the Bowling Club, which I did later. It was the social hub on Friday night. I went to bed thinking about the 3,000 bikers supposed to be on the road tomorrow, the forecast snow showers, and the tough trip to Khancoban. I booked a motel there and also my train back to Sydney from Melbourne.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 004 - Crookwell to Canberra
Day: 004
Date: Thursday, 11 November 2004
Start: Crookwell
Finish: Canberra
Daily Kilometres: 140
Total Kilometres: 580
Accommodation: Stayed with relatives
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Toasted sandwich
Dinner: Roast dinner
Animals Seen:
Journal:
During the night the barmaid poked a note under my door to sday they moved my bike into the dining room from the back room so that I could get it more easily in the morning. Very helpful. I got up at 6:20am and managed to leave by 7:20am on a cool partly cloudy morning. It was lovely bike riding south on minor roads with virtually no traffic through pastoral country. Lots of country smells and some good views when the route climbed on to the Great Divide. As the morning wore on I encountered some tougher hills and gravel roads but continued to make good time. I crossed the Hume Highway without incident and had a snack by the side of a really back country road. However it had clouded over and began to spit with rain.
I decided to keep going to Gundaroo for lunch although the gravel road and some big hills (with great views) slowed me a bit. I met a couple of women on horseback with pack horses who were also doing the Bicentennial National Trail. I probably should have stopped for a chat, but wanted to get to Canberra in good time. I arrived in Gundaroo (140km) and had lunch at the very old and quaint Post Office/cafe with a friendly proprietor. Whilst there it began raining harder and I set out for Canberra in my wet weather gear. It got heavier and I arrived in the northern suburbs soaked through on a very dreary day.
I stopped at the Visitors Centre to dry out a bit and call Pauline to confirm I wouldn't see them in the Snowy Mountains (they are going to be in Mackay). I called Jocey to confirm I would be there around 6:00pm and then set out for the last few kilometres. It was now raining very hard, but cleared up a bit as I circled Parliament House. I stopped at the Red Hill store for some Coke and chocolates to take to dinner and bumped into relatives, Bob and Heather, there. I then rode the very short distance to Jocey and Chris's house, and after a much needed shower, had a very pleasant dinner with their family. I did some washing and went to bed at 11:00pm.
Date: Thursday, 11 November 2004
Start: Crookwell
Finish: Canberra
Daily Kilometres: 140
Total Kilometres: 580
Accommodation: Stayed with relatives
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Toasted sandwich
Dinner: Roast dinner
Animals Seen:
Journal:
During the night the barmaid poked a note under my door to sday they moved my bike into the dining room from the back room so that I could get it more easily in the morning. Very helpful. I got up at 6:20am and managed to leave by 7:20am on a cool partly cloudy morning. It was lovely bike riding south on minor roads with virtually no traffic through pastoral country. Lots of country smells and some good views when the route climbed on to the Great Divide. As the morning wore on I encountered some tougher hills and gravel roads but continued to make good time. I crossed the Hume Highway without incident and had a snack by the side of a really back country road. However it had clouded over and began to spit with rain.
I decided to keep going to Gundaroo for lunch although the gravel road and some big hills (with great views) slowed me a bit. I met a couple of women on horseback with pack horses who were also doing the Bicentennial National Trail. I probably should have stopped for a chat, but wanted to get to Canberra in good time. I arrived in Gundaroo (140km) and had lunch at the very old and quaint Post Office/cafe with a friendly proprietor. Whilst there it began raining harder and I set out for Canberra in my wet weather gear. It got heavier and I arrived in the northern suburbs soaked through on a very dreary day.
I stopped at the Visitors Centre to dry out a bit and call Pauline to confirm I wouldn't see them in the Snowy Mountains (they are going to be in Mackay). I called Jocey to confirm I would be there around 6:00pm and then set out for the last few kilometres. It was now raining very hard, but cleared up a bit as I circled Parliament House. I stopped at the Red Hill store for some Coke and chocolates to take to dinner and bumped into relatives, Bob and Heather, there. I then rode the very short distance to Jocey and Chris's house, and after a much needed shower, had a very pleasant dinner with their family. I did some washing and went to bed at 11:00pm.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 003 - Jenolan Caves to Crookwell
Day: 003
Date: Wednesday, 10 November 2004
Start: Jenolan Caves
Finish: Crookwell
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 440
Accommodation: Hotel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Hotel counter tea
Animals Seen: Kangaroos, echidnas, platypus
Journal:
I got up at 6:00am and left Jenolan Caves soon after 7:00am. It was drizzling slightly and quite coldalthough I soon took off my Goretex as I struggled walking up the 5km of steep road out of Jenolan Caves. At the top it was quite alpine and very foggy. I began riding again and soon turned south along a gravel road. The road was surprisingly good but I was apprehensive about what the roads ahead would be like and hadn't finally decided what route to take.
The roads crossed a mix of alpine grazing land, pine forests and snowgum forests. It was easy to believe that it snowed up here in winter. Somehow I missed a turn I meant to make and ended up on Drogheda Forest Road. It was going in the right direction, but I wasn't sure where it would end up. There was some traffic including a few logging trucks to which I gave a wide berth. I recognised a cross road and took it with the aim of getting onto the Oberon-Goulburn Road but at one of the final turns met a minibus of prisoners being driven by a friendly guard who said I couldn't go the planned route because the road led to the prison. They suggested continuing along another road and I eventually reached the Werong gate to the Blue Mountains National Park. There was a map which seemed to indicate that the Bicentennial National Trail route would be OK (I was planning to avoid it).
I headed into the National Park and didn't see anyone until I exited 40km later. It was a great wilderness trail and for the latter part followed the Great Dividing Range ridge at around 1000m. There were some tough hills, but it wasn't as bad as expected and the views and forests were great. Before the ridge I stopped at the abandoned Mt Weong homestead/picnic area for lunch. A bit surreal.
From the mountains I emerged into grazing country which was very green and scenic. There were still tough hills but I made good time despite some bad chafing (lots of Vaseline). I stopped at Taralga at 4:00pm for an ice-cream and then turned west for Crookwell where I arrived at 7:00pm and checked into a basic room at a hotel. I had a counter tea there and went to bed at 10:00pm.
Date: Wednesday, 10 November 2004
Start: Jenolan Caves
Finish: Crookwell
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 440
Accommodation: Hotel room
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Bread and peanut butter
Dinner: Hotel counter tea
Animals Seen: Kangaroos, echidnas, platypus
Journal:
I got up at 6:00am and left Jenolan Caves soon after 7:00am. It was drizzling slightly and quite coldalthough I soon took off my Goretex as I struggled walking up the 5km of steep road out of Jenolan Caves. At the top it was quite alpine and very foggy. I began riding again and soon turned south along a gravel road. The road was surprisingly good but I was apprehensive about what the roads ahead would be like and hadn't finally decided what route to take.
The roads crossed a mix of alpine grazing land, pine forests and snowgum forests. It was easy to believe that it snowed up here in winter. Somehow I missed a turn I meant to make and ended up on Drogheda Forest Road. It was going in the right direction, but I wasn't sure where it would end up. There was some traffic including a few logging trucks to which I gave a wide berth. I recognised a cross road and took it with the aim of getting onto the Oberon-Goulburn Road but at one of the final turns met a minibus of prisoners being driven by a friendly guard who said I couldn't go the planned route because the road led to the prison. They suggested continuing along another road and I eventually reached the Werong gate to the Blue Mountains National Park. There was a map which seemed to indicate that the Bicentennial National Trail route would be OK (I was planning to avoid it).
I headed into the National Park and didn't see anyone until I exited 40km later. It was a great wilderness trail and for the latter part followed the Great Dividing Range ridge at around 1000m. There were some tough hills, but it wasn't as bad as expected and the views and forests were great. Before the ridge I stopped at the abandoned Mt Weong homestead/picnic area for lunch. A bit surreal.
From the mountains I emerged into grazing country which was very green and scenic. There were still tough hills but I made good time despite some bad chafing (lots of Vaseline). I stopped at Taralga at 4:00pm for an ice-cream and then turned west for Crookwell where I arrived at 7:00pm and checked into a basic room at a hotel. I had a counter tea there and went to bed at 10:00pm.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 002 - Kurrajong Heights to Jenolan Caves
Day: 002
Date: Tuesday, 9 November 2004
Start: Kurrajong Heights
Finish: Jenolan Caves
Daily Kilometres: 120
Total Kilometres: 290
Accommodation: Jenolan Caves House
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Chocolate and gorp
Lunch: Pies
Dinner: 3-course meal
Animals Seen:
Journal:
I had a disturbed night, firstly because it began to rain and secondly because it sounded like every car and truck on the road was coming straight through my tent. At least the tent kept me dry. It was still raining in the morning and I packed up by 7:00am in the lea of a tourist information sign. I continued west along the Bell's Line of Road in the rain and fog although I enjoyed the rainforest-like scenery. The road gradually became more undulating and I crossed Mt Tomah at about 1100m. I stopped in a picnic area with shelter shortly after for a snack and when I checked the map and guide-books realised it would be easier and shorter to connect with the Bicentennial National Trail (BNT) at Jenolan Caves. I also though I might be able to get accommodation there and dry out.
The road got hiller as I neared the descent into Lithgow and then I decided to take the road to Mt Victoria following the signs to Jenolan Caves. In Mt Victoria I did some shopping and then went to a deli for an early lunch. It was run by a middle-aged gay couple who thought Jenolan Caves was too far and that I should go home. During lunch I called Barb and asked her to find Jenolan Caves on the internet so I could call about accommodation. It was a fruaght series of calls but I eventually got the number and called Jenolan Caves and booked a room. It was still 64km to go, but only 1:00pm, so I should make it easy.
It was still raining and foggy as I set off down the big hill from Mt Victoria. I was hoping the ride would be easy, but after Cox's River it seemed to be going slow and I was tired. I stopped at Hampton Hotel for a snack and then continued on into an alpine-like environment with moors, conifers and fog and rain. At the top of one hill I discovered I was crossing the Great Divide at 1250m so I had climbed even higher than I had been in the Blue Mountains. No wonder I was tired.
The final 8km was downhill to Jenolan Caves in steady rain. The road closed at 4:00pm for roadworks but I just went around the barrier and got down OK. I checked in to Caves House and unpacked everything to dry out by the heater. The three-course dinner took forever to be served, which was annoying. The rain stopped after dinner and I hoped for a drier day tomorrow. Went to bed at 10:30pm.
Date: Tuesday, 9 November 2004
Start: Kurrajong Heights
Finish: Jenolan Caves
Daily Kilometres: 120
Total Kilometres: 290
Accommodation: Jenolan Caves House
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Chocolate and gorp
Lunch: Pies
Dinner: 3-course meal
Animals Seen:
Journal:
I had a disturbed night, firstly because it began to rain and secondly because it sounded like every car and truck on the road was coming straight through my tent. At least the tent kept me dry. It was still raining in the morning and I packed up by 7:00am in the lea of a tourist information sign. I continued west along the Bell's Line of Road in the rain and fog although I enjoyed the rainforest-like scenery. The road gradually became more undulating and I crossed Mt Tomah at about 1100m. I stopped in a picnic area with shelter shortly after for a snack and when I checked the map and guide-books realised it would be easier and shorter to connect with the Bicentennial National Trail (BNT) at Jenolan Caves. I also though I might be able to get accommodation there and dry out.
The road got hiller as I neared the descent into Lithgow and then I decided to take the road to Mt Victoria following the signs to Jenolan Caves. In Mt Victoria I did some shopping and then went to a deli for an early lunch. It was run by a middle-aged gay couple who thought Jenolan Caves was too far and that I should go home. During lunch I called Barb and asked her to find Jenolan Caves on the internet so I could call about accommodation. It was a fruaght series of calls but I eventually got the number and called Jenolan Caves and booked a room. It was still 64km to go, but only 1:00pm, so I should make it easy.
It was still raining and foggy as I set off down the big hill from Mt Victoria. I was hoping the ride would be easy, but after Cox's River it seemed to be going slow and I was tired. I stopped at Hampton Hotel for a snack and then continued on into an alpine-like environment with moors, conifers and fog and rain. At the top of one hill I discovered I was crossing the Great Divide at 1250m so I had climbed even higher than I had been in the Blue Mountains. No wonder I was tired.
The final 8km was downhill to Jenolan Caves in steady rain. The road closed at 4:00pm for roadworks but I just went around the barrier and got down OK. I checked in to Caves House and unpacked everything to dry out by the heater. The three-course dinner took forever to be served, which was annoying. The rain stopped after dinner and I hoped for a drier day tomorrow. Went to bed at 10:30pm.
Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 001 - Copacabana to Kurrajong Heights
Day: 001
Date: Monday, 8 November 2004
Start: Copacabana, NSW
Finish: Kurrajong Heights, NSW
Daily Kilometres: 170
Total Kilometres: 170
Accommodation:
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Fish and chips
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen:
Journal:
We were woken up early (4:30am) by a phone call from Keith and I decided to stay up and finish the October financials. Alicia wanted to go to school on the bus and I took her down to the bus stop at 7:30am and this delayed my departure. Then it began raining and I postponed departure till 9:00am, later than I would have liked. Barb clearly thought I was crazy and was worried about my safety. It was still spitting with rain as I left and as soon as I began riding I realised my heels were going to hit the pannier. I stopped and adjusted them in Copa and then tackled "the hill". It was OK and I stopped at the top and took off my Goretex.
Progress was steady to Gosford where I decided to go up the Pacific Highway hill instead of tackling Dog Trap Road. I made it up without stopping and continued to Mangrove Mountain. It took longer than I expected and I stopped for a snack at 11:30am. The weather was still very threatening but it hadn't rained again. I then continued on to Wisemans Ferry which again took longer than expected. It was, however, a pleasant ride and I enjoyed looking down on the Hawkesbury River where I had been paddling only a week earlier in the Hawkesbury Classic. I crossed the ferry and found a take-out place in town where I had fish and chips sitting at a table outside. I wasn't sure whether I could make Kurrajong (and the next shop) by nightfall so had a look in a small supermarket to see whether they had any bread rolls, but they didn't.
I set off along the River Road towards Lower Portland Ferry. It was a lovely ride with no big hills and lots of views over the river and farms. After the ferry I began climbing towards the Blue Mountains. It was steady up to Blaxlands Ridge and then relatively flat along the Ridge to Kurrajong., firstly through bush and then hobby farms. I got to Kurrajong at 6:30pm and stopped for an ice-cream and some groceries. I hoped to get past Kurrajong Heights before stopping for the night so that I had the biggest climb behind me. I began the climb and ended up walking much of the way. I thought of stopping in a motel if I could find one as it got darker. I put on my lights and continued on looking for somewhere to pitch my tent, but it was hard because it was now dark. In the end I stopped in a lay-by right next to the road and set up camp in the dark at 8:30pm. I had a quick dinner of chips, bread and peanut butter, and chocolate, and was in bed by 10:00pm.
Date: Monday, 8 November 2004
Start: Copacabana, NSW
Finish: Kurrajong Heights, NSW
Daily Kilometres: 170
Total Kilometres: 170
Accommodation:
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Fish and chips
Dinner: Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen:
Journal:
We were woken up early (4:30am) by a phone call from Keith and I decided to stay up and finish the October financials. Alicia wanted to go to school on the bus and I took her down to the bus stop at 7:30am and this delayed my departure. Then it began raining and I postponed departure till 9:00am, later than I would have liked. Barb clearly thought I was crazy and was worried about my safety. It was still spitting with rain as I left and as soon as I began riding I realised my heels were going to hit the pannier. I stopped and adjusted them in Copa and then tackled "the hill". It was OK and I stopped at the top and took off my Goretex.
Progress was steady to Gosford where I decided to go up the Pacific Highway hill instead of tackling Dog Trap Road. I made it up without stopping and continued to Mangrove Mountain. It took longer than I expected and I stopped for a snack at 11:30am. The weather was still very threatening but it hadn't rained again. I then continued on to Wisemans Ferry which again took longer than expected. It was, however, a pleasant ride and I enjoyed looking down on the Hawkesbury River where I had been paddling only a week earlier in the Hawkesbury Classic. I crossed the ferry and found a take-out place in town where I had fish and chips sitting at a table outside. I wasn't sure whether I could make Kurrajong (and the next shop) by nightfall so had a look in a small supermarket to see whether they had any bread rolls, but they didn't.
I set off along the River Road towards Lower Portland Ferry. It was a lovely ride with no big hills and lots of views over the river and farms. After the ferry I began climbing towards the Blue Mountains. It was steady up to Blaxlands Ridge and then relatively flat along the Ridge to Kurrajong., firstly through bush and then hobby farms. I got to Kurrajong at 6:30pm and stopped for an ice-cream and some groceries. I hoped to get past Kurrajong Heights before stopping for the night so that I had the biggest climb behind me. I began the climb and ended up walking much of the way. I thought of stopping in a motel if I could find one as it got darker. I put on my lights and continued on looking for somewhere to pitch my tent, but it was hard because it was now dark. In the end I stopped in a lay-by right next to the road and set up camp in the dark at 8:30pm. I had a quick dinner of chips, bread and peanut butter, and chocolate, and was in bed by 10:00pm.
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