Hiking or biking Australia's Bicentennial National Trail (BNT), which follows the Great Dividing Range along the east coast, has always been of interest to me as a possible adventure. In late 2004, I put my toe in the water by riding my new mountain bike from my home on the NSW Central Coast to Melbourne following the BNT as much as realistically possible on a bike.

Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 005 - Canberra to Adaminaby

Day:  005
Date:  Friday, 12 November 2004
Start:  Canberra
Finish:  Adaminaby
Daily Kilometres:  115
Total Kilometres:  695
Accommodation:  Motel room
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Rice bubbles and crumpets
  Lunch:  Bread and peanut butter
  Dinner:  Quiche
Animals Seen:  Tortoise, kangaroos, swooping magpies

Journal:
I got up at 6:45am, packed and organised my own breakfast and ate with Chris and Jocey.  Chris left for work at about 7:45am and I left about 8:20am.  Initially I made good time on good roads heading south out of Canberra against the peak hour traffic.  I reached Tharwa soon after 9:00am but didn't see a store there so didn't have the snack and Coke I had planned (a fatal error?).

From Tharwa the road climbed in fits and starts through rural grazing land surrounded by high rocky mountains.  I stopped for a break at the top of one of the long hills and relaxed in the sun and cool wind surveying the view.  I was sweating a lot going up the hills and the flies were bad.  I swallowed a few!  I kept on and laboured or walked up many hills, often followed by downhills, losing most of the altitude gained, which was abit frustrating.

I stopped for lunch at a trailhead after walking up a very long hill.  It was a pleasant spot and I was tempted to lie down for a sleep.  On resuming, the road changed to gravel and continued relentlessly upwards.  I walked some and rode some and went through my water very quickly.  I reached Shannons Flat/Hut, an abandoned summer cattlemans hut set in a beautiful alpine meadow and stopped for a break.  I seemed to be near the pass and the road was undulating and scenic before crossing the ACT/NSW border from where the gravel road immediately deteriorated into corrugations and minor washouts.  This meant I couldn't go downhill fast and got shaken a lot but the bike held together.  The gears are sticking a bit, probably because of the dust.  I had used all of my water and was getting dehydrated.

The bad road combined with a strong headwind made the last 20km hard going and I was very pleased when I reached Adaminaby.  I stopped at the motel on the outskirts of town and got a $50 room from a very nice guy.  He told me to get dinner at the Bowling Club, which I did later.  It was the social hub on Friday night.  I went to bed thinking about the 3,000 bikers supposed to be on the road tomorrow, the forecast snow showers, and the tough trip to Khancoban.  I booked a motel there and also my train back to Sydney from Melbourne.

Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 004 - Crookwell to Canberra

Day:  004
Date:  Thursday, 11 November 2004
Start:  Crookwell
Finish:  Canberra
Daily Kilometres:  140
Total Kilometres:  580
Accommodation:  Stayed with relatives
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli
  Lunch:  Toasted sandwich
  Dinner:  Roast dinner
Animals Seen:

Journal:
During the night the barmaid poked a note under my door to sday they moved my bike into the dining room from the back room so that I could get it more easily in the morning.  Very helpful.  I got up at 6:20am and managed to leave by 7:20am on a cool partly cloudy morning.  It was lovely bike riding south on minor roads with virtually no traffic through pastoral country.  Lots of country smells and some good views when the route climbed on to the Great Divide.  As the morning wore on I encountered some tougher hills and gravel roads but continued to make good time.  I crossed the Hume Highway without incident and had a snack by the side of a really back country road.  However it had clouded over and began to spit with rain.

I decided to keep going to Gundaroo for lunch although the gravel road and some big hills (with great views) slowed me a bit.  I met a couple of women on horseback with pack horses who were also doing the Bicentennial National Trail.  I probably should have stopped for a chat, but wanted to get to Canberra in good time.  I arrived in Gundaroo (140km) and had lunch at the very old and quaint Post Office/cafe with a friendly proprietor.  Whilst there it began raining harder and I set out for Canberra in my wet weather gear.  It got heavier and I arrived in the northern suburbs soaked through on a very dreary day.

I stopped at the Visitors Centre to dry out a bit and call Pauline to confirm I wouldn't see them in the Snowy Mountains (they are going to be in Mackay).  I called Jocey to confirm I would be there around 6:00pm and then set out for the last few kilometres.  It was now raining very hard, but cleared up a bit as I circled Parliament House.  I stopped at the Red Hill store for some Coke and chocolates to take to dinner and bumped into relatives, Bob and Heather, there.  I then rode the very short distance to Jocey and Chris's house, and after a much needed shower, had a very pleasant dinner with their family.  I did some washing and went to bed at 11:00pm.

Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 003 - Jenolan Caves to Crookwell

Day:  003
Date:  Wednesday, 10 November 2004
Start:  Jenolan Caves
Finish:  Crookwell
Daily Kilometres:  150
Total Kilometres:  440
Accommodation:  Hotel room
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli
  Lunch:  Bread and peanut butter
  Dinner:  Hotel counter tea
Animals Seen:  Kangaroos, echidnas, platypus

Journal:
I got up at 6:00am and left Jenolan Caves soon after 7:00am.  It was drizzling slightly and quite coldalthough I soon took off my Goretex as I struggled walking up the 5km of steep road out of Jenolan Caves.  At the top it was quite alpine and very foggy.  I began riding again and soon turned south along a gravel road. The road was surprisingly good but I was apprehensive about what the roads ahead would be like and hadn't finally decided what route to take.

The roads crossed a mix of alpine grazing land, pine forests and snowgum forests.  It was easy to believe that it snowed up here in winter.  Somehow I missed a turn I meant to make and ended up on Drogheda Forest Road.  It was going in the right direction, but I wasn't sure where it would end up.  There was some traffic including a few logging trucks to which I gave a wide berth.  I recognised a cross road and took it with the aim of getting onto the Oberon-Goulburn Road but at one of the final turns met a minibus of prisoners being driven by a friendly guard who said I couldn't go the planned route because the road led to the prison.  They suggested continuing along another road and I eventually reached the Werong gate to the Blue Mountains National Park.  There was a map which seemed to indicate that the Bicentennial National Trail route would be OK (I was planning to avoid it).

I headed into the National Park and didn't see anyone until I exited 40km later.  It was a great wilderness trail and for the latter part followed the Great Dividing Range ridge at around 1000m.  There were some tough hills, but it wasn't as bad as expected and the views and forests were great.  Before the ridge I stopped at the abandoned Mt Weong homestead/picnic area for lunch.  A bit surreal.

From the mountains I emerged into grazing country which was very green and scenic.  There were still tough hills but I made good time despite some bad chafing (lots of Vaseline).  I stopped at Taralga at 4:00pm for an ice-cream and then turned west for Crookwell where I arrived at 7:00pm and checked into a basic room at a hotel.  I had a counter tea there and went to bed at 10:00pm.

Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 002 - Kurrajong Heights to Jenolan Caves

Day:  002
Date:  Tuesday, 9 November 2004
Start:  Kurrajong Heights
Finish:  Jenolan Caves
Daily Kilometres:  120
Total Kilometres:  290
Accommodation:  Jenolan Caves House
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Chocolate and gorp
  Lunch:  Pies
  Dinner:  3-course meal
Animals Seen:

Journal:
I had a disturbed night, firstly because it began to rain and secondly because it sounded like every car and truck on the road was coming straight through my tent.  At least the tent kept me dry.  It was still raining in the morning and I packed up by 7:00am in the lea of a tourist information sign.  I continued west along the Bell's Line of Road in the rain and fog although I enjoyed the rainforest-like scenery.  The road gradually became more undulating and I crossed Mt Tomah at about 1100m.  I stopped in a picnic area with shelter shortly after for a snack and when I checked the map and guide-books realised it would be easier and shorter to connect with the Bicentennial National Trail (BNT) at Jenolan Caves.  I also though I might be able to get accommodation there and dry out.

The road got hiller as I neared the descent into Lithgow and then I decided to take the road to Mt Victoria following the signs to Jenolan Caves.  In Mt Victoria I did some shopping and then went to a deli for an early lunch.  It was run by a middle-aged gay couple who thought Jenolan Caves was too far and that I should go home.  During lunch I called Barb and asked her to find Jenolan Caves on the internet so I could call about accommodation.  It was a fruaght series of calls but I eventually got the number and called Jenolan Caves and booked a room.  It was still 64km to go, but only 1:00pm, so I should make it easy.

It was still raining and foggy as I set off down the big hill from Mt Victoria.  I was hoping the ride would be easy, but after Cox's River it seemed to be going slow and I was tired.  I stopped at Hampton Hotel for a snack and then continued on into an alpine-like environment with moors, conifers and fog and rain.  At the top of one hill I discovered I was crossing the Great Divide at 1250m so I had climbed even higher than I had been in the Blue Mountains.  No wonder I was tired.

The final 8km was downhill to Jenolan Caves in steady rain.  The road closed at 4:00pm for roadworks but I just went around the barrier and got down OK.  I checked in to Caves House and unpacked everything to dry out by the heater.  The three-course dinner took forever to be served, which was annoying.  The rain stopped after dinner and I hoped for a drier day tomorrow.  Went to bed at 10:30pm.

Sydney to Melbourne BNT by MTB - Day 001 - Copacabana to Kurrajong Heights

Day:  001
Date:  Monday, 8 November 2004
Start:  Copacabana, NSW
Finish:  Kurrajong Heights, NSW
Daily Kilometres:  170
Total Kilometres:  170
Accommodation:
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Muesli
  Lunch:  Fish and chips
  Dinner:  Bread and peanut butter
Animals Seen:

Journal:
We were woken up early (4:30am) by a phone call from Keith and I decided to stay up and finish the October financials.  Alicia wanted to go to school on the bus and I took her down to the bus stop at 7:30am and this delayed my departure.  Then it began raining and I postponed departure till 9:00am, later than I would have liked.  Barb clearly thought I was crazy and was worried about my safety.  It was still spitting with rain as I left and as soon as I began riding I realised my heels were going to hit the pannier.  I stopped and adjusted them in Copa and then tackled "the hill".  It was OK and I stopped at the top and took off my Goretex.

Progress was steady to Gosford where I decided to go up the Pacific Highway hill instead of tackling Dog Trap Road.  I made it up without stopping and continued to Mangrove Mountain.  It took longer than I expected and I stopped for a snack at 11:30am.  The weather was still very threatening but it hadn't rained again.  I then continued on to Wisemans Ferry which again took longer than expected.  It was, however, a pleasant ride and I enjoyed looking down on the Hawkesbury River where I had been paddling only a week earlier in the Hawkesbury Classic.  I crossed the ferry and found a take-out place in town where I had fish and chips sitting at a table outside.  I wasn't sure whether I could make Kurrajong (and the next shop) by nightfall so had a look in a small supermarket to see whether they had any bread rolls, but they didn't.

I set off along the River Road towards Lower Portland Ferry.  It was a lovely ride with no big hills and lots of views over the river and farms.  After the ferry I began climbing towards the Blue Mountains.  It was steady up to Blaxlands Ridge and then relatively flat along the Ridge to Kurrajong., firstly through bush and then hobby farms.  I got to Kurrajong at 6:30pm and stopped for an ice-cream and some groceries.  I hoped to get past Kurrajong Heights before stopping for the night so that I had the biggest climb behind me.  I began the climb and ended up walking much of the way.  I thought of stopping in a motel if I could find one as it got darker.  I put on my lights and continued on looking for somewhere to pitch my tent, but it was hard because it was now dark.  In the end I stopped in a lay-by right next to the road and set up camp in the dark at 8:30pm.  I had a quick dinner of chips, bread and peanut butter, and chocolate, and was in bed by 10:00pm.